Common Boa
Stats
| Scientific Name | Boa constrictor | Maximum Length | 6 – 8 ft. |
|---|---|---|---|
| Native To | Central & South America | Approximate Life Span | 20+ yrs |
General Info
This is one of the most popular pet snakes due to their great temperament and beautiful markings. Boas are arboreal (tree climbing) snakes, so provide lots of climbing branches so they can move about. They are also nocturnal (active at night) so you will more than likely not see them move much during the day. These are great animals for anyone who wants something impressive and of a nice size but one that doesn’t get too large.
Enclosure
The Enclosure should be no shorter than 2/3 the snake’s body length. Baby Common Boas can live in a 20-gallon long aquarium up to a year. Boas are notorious escape artists! You can greatly reduce the risk of escape by purchasing aquarium locks and placing them one on each end. Provide plenty of ventilation and a secure hiding place. There are many natural and unnatural looking hide boxes but when purchasing one look for one that is easy to clean. Boas are arboreal (tree climbing) so provide them with lots of sturdy climbing branches. It is good to place one climbing branch under the heat lamp so the snake can bask.
Substrate/Bedding
There are many good substrates for boas including newspaper, cypress mulch, shredded aspen, coconut husk, fir bark, rabbit pellets, and reptile carpet. DO NOT use cedar shavings! It’s oils are TOXIC to reptiles.
Heat & Humidity
Daytime temperatures 84 – 90°f. Do not let nighttime temperatures drop below 78°f. If a large water bowl is used, the humidity level should be fine. Never allow water to condense on the glass. The cause of condensation could be attributed to an overly wet enclosure, inadequate ventilation, or both. Reptiles need to be able to regulate their body temperature, so a temperature range must be provided. There are many good ways of heating the enclosure including, any kind of reptile heat bulb found at your local pet store, a ceramic heat bulb, under-tank heat pads, and heat tape. Just be sure that the temperature stays in the right range and any of these will work. Some times it is good to use an under tank heater with another heater to get a good temperature. For easy control, use a rheostat in conjunction which will balance out one or more heat sources to the desired temp. In-cage rock heaters are not recommended because they tend to get to hot and can burn your pet. Always use at least one thermometer in your reptile enclosures although two is optimal; one on the cool side and one on the warm side.
Lighting
UVB is not a necessity, but not harmful. If desired, use a 2.0 fluorescent 8 – 12 hours a day. The UVA spectrum this bulb provides is beneficial to the psychological well-being of diurnal (active during day) reptiles. All reptiles and amphibians need a photo period (light cycle). A plug in timer (for your white lights only, do not use a timer for your heating devices) works well to develop a regular photo period of 8 – 10 hours of light, 14 – 16 hours of dark. Reptiles and amphibians cannot see the red light spectrum, so a red heat bulb is ideal for nighttime viewing and heat.
Food & Water
Feed your boa rodents. Single food item should not be larger than snake’s girth. Baby Boa Constrictors should be fed weekly. A mouse that has just got its hair (known as fuzzies or hoppers) will be sufficient. Increase the size of the food as the snake grows. It is best to feed pre-killed food items. If the snake gets a bad strike on the rodent, the rodent may be able to turn its body in order to bite the snake. Severe damage to the snake or even death may occur. Keeping a supply of pre-killed rodents in the freezer will ensure a steady supply of food in case obtaining them becomes a problem. Be sure to thaw rodents at room temperature before feeding to your snake. Do not use the microwave! The internal temperature of the rodent may become extremely hot and cause severe internal burns to your snake even if part of the rodent is still frozen. Do not feed Boas in their living quarters as this may condition them to strike at you when you want to pick them up. Do not attempt to pick up any snake with the scent of other animals on your hands or clothing. This may entice the snake to strike in hunger. For water, provide a large, sturdy bowl which cannot tip over (glazed ceramic dog bowls work well) and make sure water is always fresh and clean.
Note: Your should use these care guides in conjunction with a book or other reliable source or reptile and amphibian information to provide the highest quality of care for your pet.



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